Varosha: Daydream of Bygone Era
The streets of Varosha are filled with vibrant colors and sounds. You'll hear the cheerful laughter of children and lively music, and see small cafés where you can find peace and quiet. There's also a secluded spot on the wide sandy beach where you can unwind. It's the perfect escape from everyday life and a vacation right by the sea. You'll hear the soothing sound of the waves and the pulse of a lively town in the background.
Not many people remember this carefree time. Varosha was once a vibrant tourist destination, with thriving businesses, happy families, and a dream vacation straight out of a picture book. Now, the large buildings have stood empty for decades. Hotel chains, cafés, and apartment buildings are all in a state of disrepair. They are hidden, yet visible to all behind high fences with warning signs: No trespassing, military zone. What happened in Varosha?
Glamor, Stars, and Celebrities
Varosha prior to 1974
Summer, sun, beach, and movie stars—vacation tourism was booming in the 1960s. The global economic boom and the flourishing age of the emerging Hollywood scene gave it a boost. Popular mass tourism brought countless celebrities to some of the world's most beautiful beaches.
Cyprus was also a popular destination for celebrities. Varosha was the place to be: a small town near the capital, Famagusta, right on the beach. The tourism industry quickly recognized the potential of the location. In almost no time, entire apartment complexes, high-end hotels, luxury boutiques, Michelin-starred restaurants, and top-quality leisure facilities popped up.
The wealthy and famous from all over Europe enjoyed the sun on the golden beaches of the east coast of Cyprus. But word also spread quickly on the other side of the world that Varosha was a vacation monopoly. Many Cypriots made a good living from tourism. The hotel complexes, restaurants, and even the parking garages were all owned by locals, but that wasn't going to last.
Turkish Invasion and Occupation of Varosha
In July 1974, Turkey invaded northern Cyprus, including Varosha. The town was subsequently declared a military zone: No trespassing. For over 45 years. But what actually happened, and how did it get this far in the first place? Together, we'll explore the history of Cyprus. A conflict that had been brewing for a long time finally reached the boiling point and engulfed an entire town.
Background of Varosha's Occupation
Like many towns and regions in northern Cyprus, Varosha became a political casualty of a conflict that had been simmering for a long time. Originally, Cyprus was culturally part of the Greek mainland until it was taken over by the Ottoman Empire in the 16th century. The Ottoman Empire leased the island to Great Britain and Ireland. Thus, it became a British colony.
The Christians had to leave the capital, Famagusta, and set up a new community outside the city walls called Varosia, or Varosha. There were many conflicts between Turkish Cypriots and Greek Cypriots living on the island. For instance, the two ethnic groups were deliberately kept apart by having different schools and constantly being encouraged to think differently. It was simply not an option to try to bring people together or to understand each other within this framework.
The British used this as an excuse to keep tight control over the island. They didn't invest much, which made the people want Cyprus to be reintegrated even more. It was only natural that the Greek Cypriots wanted Greece, while the Turkish Cypriots wanted Turkey.
After the First World War, the situation only grew worse and worse. Greece backed the south, while Turkey supported the north of the island. There were bomb attacks and armed raids between the camps. While Britain was deliberately increasing tensions and trying to use them to its advantage as a colonial power, other superpowers, such as the USA, attempted to mediate. In the end, there should be no civil war.
Ultimately, everything seemed to work out fine. The Zurich and London Agreements of 1959 saw Greece, Turkey, Britain, and the Cypriot population come to an agreement: Cyprus was to become an independent republic. A year later, the time had come. The island became independent and elected its first government.
Varosha as Victim of Politics: 1974 Cyprus Conflict
After the declaration of independence as a republic, Varosha quickly became a popular tourist destination. By 1970, tourism was responsible for 57% of Cyprus' entire gross domestic product in the booming town. All's well that ends well? Unfortunately not. After all, the 1960 constitution was also not met with only a positive response. In particular, the Greek Cypriot population felt disadvantaged. They felt that the island's Turkish residents were being given rights that they weren't entitled to have.
The Turkish Cypriot group wasn't happy with the solution either. They thought that Cyprus was rightfully taken over by the former Ottoman Empire and thus by Turkey. There were more conflicts between the two sides, often with bloodshed. There was simply no peace in Cyprus. On the 15th of July, 1974, the heated atmosphere reached its peak.
Certain officers in the Cypriot National Guard joined forces with the Greek military junta in Athens to stage a coup against the Cypriot government. This far-right, nationalist military government had already taken power in Greece following a military coup. The goal was to integrate Cyprus into mainland Greece. Needless to say, Greece violated the Zurich and London Agreements of 1959. And now? Are the other countries involved, Britain and Turkey, going to take joint action?
In fact, Britain wasn't willing to get involved. Turkey had no choice but to take matters into its own hands and invade northern Cyprus. It occupied around 40% of the island, including the area that accounted for 70% of the gross domestic product, including Varosha. The status quo was untenable.
The Greek-backed government that had staged the coup soon withdrew, and Cyprus reverted to its republican status that same year with a new, legitimized government. Turkey was asked to withdraw its troops, but it didn't. Varosha, along with all of northern Cyprus, remained under Turkish occupation and was even declared a separate state by Turkey, though it is still not recognized internationally.
Against All (Human) Rights: Varosha 1974
The Turkish invasion frightened more than the people who lived in Varosha. They had to leave in the middle of the day due to the invasion. Their most important possessions were quickly gathered together, valuables were hidden, and their children were taken by the hand. They headed to the wooded areas of Cyprus, hoping to be able to return to their homes in Varosha in a few days or weeks.
But that didn't happen until today. Turkey set up a military exclusion zone along the so-called Attila Line, which marks the border between north and south. Varosha was also caught up in this. The whole town was sealed off, and more was to come. The most notable buildings in Varosha, such as the renowned Salaminia Tower Hotel, were destroyed by Turkish air raids.
The bombs destroyed the entire infrastructure of the once-flourishing tourist town of Varosha. All that remained were smashed windows and a pile of sad rubble on the golden, sandy beach. Could the resort be restored at the right time? It's hard to imagine that happening. As it stands, the original residents of Varosha are still unable to return: It's a violation of European international law, but Turkey isn't interested in hearing about it.
Decay and Ruins: Varosha Today
After the Turkish invasion and the bombing raids, Varosha, the former jewel of the east coast, fell silent. The Turkish military looted the buildings behind the barbed wire fences, stripping them of everything down to the last copper cable. All that remained was a shell of the Cypriot dream, which became a deep-seated trauma.
As early as 1984, the UN Security Council decided that Varosha could only be resettled by locals. However, this didn't help the former residents much, as the strictly guarded military zone remained in place. This meant they were kept away from their homes for decades.
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What is the situation in Varosha today?
The ghost town of Varosha was off-limits to everyone. Even so, the fact that many similar places in Cyprus had been abandoned, attracted tourists. There's something about lost places that fascinates many people. Places that have been hastily abandoned are all the more interesting for urban explorers; in short, and more commonly: urbexers.
It wasn't easy to keep barbed wire and patrolling soldiers out of Varosha. Those who managed to get in and out without being caught had some rather fascinating stories to tell: Varosha was like a time capsule from the 1970s. As if everything had simply been frozen in time—and then covered in dust.
Varosha 2017: Surprising Opening of Town
Over time, things grew quieter around the ghost town. After all, thanks to Turkish looting and natural decay, there wasn't much left to see in Varosha. In 2017, it was a surprise when the barbed wire disappeared. At least, in the area of the beach right in front of the ruins of the town.
However, Varosha was only open to Turkish and Turkish Cypriot travelers. You could even go for a swim in front of the ruins, surrounded by military personnel and barbed wire. It's not just an absurd idea, but also a significant issue. Once tourists started heading to the beach, shop owners set up in Varosha, opening drink stores and water sports schools. According to the 1984 decision, this wasn't legal.
But that wasn't the end of it. In the autumn of 2020, another part of Varosha was opened. About 3.5 km² (1.35 mi²) of the ghost town was open to international tourists who wanted to see the rundown buildings. President Erdoğan of Turkey even had a picnic on the Varosha beach not long afterwards. This visit caused a stir. What would happen next? Was this a clear indication that Varosha would remain under Turkish control forever?
Varosha Ghost Town: How bad is the decay?
The former residents of Varosha were also allowed to go back to their hometown. The initial excitement gave way to a sense of resignation. The streets in the cleared area had been newly asphalted, but wooden fences kept curious tourists and former residents alike from going inside the buildings.
As a result, they were unable to enter their own property. This was a clear sign for Varosha. Meanwhile, new cafés popped up in various areas. Of course, it was only for tourism. Some people were so determined to see what was going on that they made their way over the barricades and took a quick look inside their homes. A few people got some photos before they were forced to retreat by the military with harsh words and weapons.
What they saw there was pretty sobering. It was a sorry sight. The building was in a state of disrepair, with the effects of time visible on the bare walls. Much was broken and in danger of collapsing. The reinforced concrete was cracked all over, and it was clear that the metal inside had rusted away a long time ago. The salty sea air did the rest. Varosha was unrecognizable. It was as if the entire infrastructure, everything that had once blossomed so colorfully, had been erased. The tourist hotspot was nothing like it used to be.
Will Varosha be rebuilt?
The Turkish Cypriot authorities have said they plan to reopen more parts of the Varosha resort, which is against all UN resolutions. At the same time, they've offered the owners of land and houses in Varosha the chance to sell to the illegitimate government. A sale to other interested parties was, of course, ruled out.
It's been reported that a Turkish Cypriot entrepreneur bought five of the largest and most popular hotels in Varosha from their rightful owners in 2023. His plan was to rebuild them and reopen them under their original names.
Property owners in Varosha face a tough decision: Do they keep hoping they'll be able to go back home at some point, or do they give up and sell their buildings to the newcomers? International politicians feel like they have no choice, which doesn't give the hotel and restaurant owners much hope.
Varosha: Any Future?
It's still unclear what the future holds for Varosha. It would be wonderful for everyone if it were rebuilt, but we're still not sure how that's going to happen. From an economic point of view, the town's reputation is a sure bet for a thriving tourism industry, even today.
Varosha is a place that people all over the world know about, whether from its past glory or because it's a fascinating lost place. This could be the start of a new vacation resort that builds on the success of the '60s and '70s. Perhaps not as Varosha, an exclusive seaside resort for the rich and famous. But as Varosha, a destination with a very special history.
How can Varosha be saved?
It seems that most of the buildings are beyond repair. But does that mean the town has to be abandoned? In fact, Varosha is so well-known that it would certainly be easy to find investors who would be willing to help the former residents. After all, this place is a real economic goldmine for tourism.
With a big redevelopment and renovation plan, it would be easy to rebuild and restore many of Varosha's famous hotels and restaurants. The idea of buildings like the Lykeio Ellinidon, a gorgeous neoclassical theater, being restored to their former glory is really exciting for many Cypriots.
However, such a plan requires Varosha to be freed from its fate as a political pawn. Politics should never get in the way of construction. We've already talked about many similar cases on this blog. They often differ in detail, but the underlying problem is the same.
Conclusion: Ghost Town of Varosha, Cyprus
Varosha has a turbulent past. It would be wonderful if the town could put everything behind it and look forward to a bright future. Turkey's passive-aggressive attitude in recent years is a clear sign that an early return of the properties to their rightful owners in Varosha is not desired, nor was it ever intended.
Displacing people from their homes and depriving them of said homes for decades is deeply reprehensible. To deprive them of any hope by partially reopening the town without allowing the original residents to even enter their own homes is absolutely inhumane.
The even more hypocritical offer that the owners could sell their property in Varosha to the illegitimate government instead of staring sadly at the ruins of their past borders on mockery, which is more than merely inappropriate. For these people, the destroyed buildings hold memories, precious memories. Many of them spent their childhoods here and have been hoping for decades to be able to return one day.
The only fair solution for Varosha would be an immediate withdrawal of the Turkish military and the return of the buildings to their owners. Many local families would be more than willing to do whatever it takes to fulfill the long-held dream of rebuilding their homes in Varosha.
Given the current situation, it is doubtful that this dream will ever come true. But as the saying goes: Hope dies last. And we want to stick to that in the case of Varosha.
